1. THE RESIN HAS NOT HARDENED AFTER THE INDICATED TIME
If the resin has not hardened after the indicated time has elapsed, there may be several causes. Here are
the most common causes:
- Check the employment ratio indicated in the instructions carefully. An incorrect or approximate combination could compromise the catalyzation of the product.
It is very important that you never add more hardener than the amount specified.
- Never make the second casting without first checking that the first one is completely hardened.
Pouring again on an uncatalyzed surface could cause an overheating phenomenon and
compromise your work.
- If you work in an environment where the temperature is relatively low, the curing time of the
resin will increase significantly. For example, if you change from 25° to 15°, the curing time
will double. Use an external heat source (stove, radiator, etc.) to increase the ambient
temperature or use a catalyst suitable for working at low temperatures.
- Most of the problems concerning the lack of hardening of the resins can be traced back to
incorrect mixing. Make sure that you have mixed your product well for at least two minutes,
carefully scraping the bottom and all the walls of the container used. Never be approximate in
this very important phase.
- Add the additives (pigments, dyes, etc.) only after mixing the resin and the catalyst.
- Use the catalyst you find packed together with the resin you are going to work with. The use of
“foreign” catalysts may vary the final result.
2. THE RESIN DOES NOT STICK WELL
- If you want to use the resin as a glue or to create River Tables, you may face some problems related to
the stickiness of the product.
- If you are working on a very porous surface, it will absorb the product very easily, making it
necessary to pass a second coat of resin especially on the edges of the material you are going to glue.
- If you work on wood, make sure that you have cleaned and smoothed the surface. A rough
cleaning may cause the resin to lose its adhesion.
- Another problem may also concern the width of your worktop. A large surface of resin alone
may not guarantee a perfect seal. To deal with this problem, all you need to do is add material to reduce the workload of the resin.
- Make sure that the resin is evenly distributed over the entire surface.
3. THE RESIN HAS LOST ITS SHINE
If your resin has taken on an opaque and unpolished color, most likely the causes are to be found in the climatic conditions of your working environment.
Many times the opacification can be caused even just by a normal change of season.
Use an external heat source to remove moisture and promote polymerization.
4. A STICKY FILM HAS BEEN FORMED ON THE SURFACE
Once the resin has hardened, a sticky film may form on the surface. This problem can easily be overcome by passing a wet sponge with hot water on your surface.
However, if you want to avoid the formation of these films, use the following measures:
- Always try to work in an enclosed environment and avoid temperature changes in the room.
- Avoid working with too small quantities, the smaller the mixing doses, the more you risk to
promote the formation of impurities in the compound.
- Remember that the formation of films does not only depend on humidity but also on the
presence of CO2, thus limit the use of thermal guns during the catalysis process.
- Remember that the use of a container limits the interaction of the resin with the air molecules.
Try to keep your product as isolated as possible.
5. AFTER YEARS OF STORAGE, THE HARDENER HAS TAKEN ON A REDDISH COLOR
It is quite normal that, after a few years, the hardener takes on a reddish color and loses its transparency.
This color variation does not in any way compromise the quality of the resin, which can continue to be used without problems unless you need a totally colorless product.
6. THE RESIN SURFACE HAS AN “ORANGE PEEL” EFFECT
If the resin surface has embossing or an “orange peel” effect after hardening, this is probably also due to the temperature of your working environment.
There are a few solutions that you can try to overcome this problem:
- If the product is not yet completely hardened, use a roller to “smooth” the surface, this procedure will eliminate the various embossings on the resin surface.
- If the resin is not yet completely catalyzed, you can try a repair casting of 2mm maximum.
- If the resin is completely catalyzed, sand it with a sheet of 100 grit abrasive paper and finish it with a layer of glossy polyurethane spray paint.
7. THE USED PAINT DOES NOT STICK TO THE RESIN
If the paint you have chosen to finish the resin does not stick well to the product, you may have made
some mistakes in the preparation phase:
- The resin may not yet be fully cured. Allow the product to dry for another 24 hours before applying the varnish
- Make sure that the varnish you are using is compatible with the resin. Do not use varnishes that are not compatible with your products.
- Make sure that no sticky film has been created on your resin surface. If so, remove it as described in step 4.
8. THE RESIN CURES TOO QUICKLY
In addition to hardening problems, you may also encounter some problems related to a too quick polymerization of your product.
Again, the reasons are related to the temperature of your working environment: if the temperature is too high, the product may catalyze too quickly and compromise your work.
It is therefore advisable to keep a temperature of about 20°-25° and not to mix excessive doses of product.
9. THE RESIN HAS BUBBLES ON THE SURFACE
The formation of air bubbles is one of the most common problems when working with resin.
To avoid this process, be sure to mix the product well and slowly in order to prevent the introduction of air into the compound.
If, during the curing process, the resin has small bubbles on the surface, these can be easily removed with the use of a heat gun that you will have to pass quickly on the surface with intervals of 10 minutes.
Remember that once the product has hardened, the bubbles cannot be removed unless you choose to make a further casting using dyes.
10. THE RESIN, COMBINED WITH GLASS FIBER, HAS MICRO-HOLES
It may happen that, using resin and fiberglass, micro holes are created. In this case the solution is very simple:
fill these holes with resin using a spatula, let dry and pass a second coat of resin.
11. THE RESIN IS NOT COMPLETELY CLEAN
If the resin is not completely clean, the reasons may be certainly related to the cleanliness of the environment.
Take great care to clean your work tools, the container you are going to use (remove any oil or grease from the inside of the wall) and the room you are going to work in.
An extreme cleaning will minimize the risk of contamination of the resin by external agents.
12. WHAT IS AN EPOXY RESIN?
An epoxy resin is a particular type of resin that catalyzes thanks to a particular hardener and without requiring particular climatic conditions.
This type of product has excellent adhesive and mechanical properties, it is completely non-toxic and can be used to create a wide range of products.
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